Conakry

Conakry is about 90% Muslim, and that shapes daily rhythms in concrete ways. The city genuinely pauses during Friday prayers, 1pm to 3pm, with Kaloum effectively gridlocked and most of the center shutting down. Plan around it.

The attaya ritual — three rounds of increasingly sweet, increasingly small glasses of bitter green tea — is social glue. Accept every time you're offered it. Declining reads as dismissive, not polite.

Susu is the dominant language you'll hear on streets and in markets. French is official but it's for schools and government offices. On the street, even a few Susu words land differently than French.

Griots (oral storytellers and musicians) still hold real social weight here. Guinea was the only French colony to vote "Non" in De Gaulle's 1958 referendum, choosing complete independence over association with France. That pride runs deep.

The music culture is genuinely extraordinary. Mory Kanté recorded the first African million-selling pop hit here. Local percussion traditions and the kora have global reputations, and you hear them live on street stages, not just in tourist shows.

Friday prayers freeze the city center from 1–3pm. Don't even try to catch a taxi through Kaloum then — just stop, find shade, and wait.. Always greet first and with your full attention.

'On est ensemble' with a light handshake is the standard opener. Skipping the greeting entirely reads as disrespectful, not efficient.. When offered attaya (three rounds of bitter green tea, each progressively sweeter), accept.

Refusing is the local equivalent of refusing a handshake at a job interview.. Dress covers knees and shoulders everywhere except hotel pools. Women in shorts on Rue de la République will draw stares and occasional comments.

It's not a suggestion.. Photography is a real issue. Never photograph government buildings, the Presidential Palace, military compounds, or police checkpoints.

People have had phones confiscated. Always ask before photographing individuals — most say yes, but asking is what matters.. Cash is non-negotiable for 99% of transactions.

Two hotels in the entire city take cards. Restaurants: zero. Carry small-denomination GNF notes at all times and break larger bills before 5pm..

Malaria is endemic year-round. Get on prophylaxis before you arrive, not after.. Local drinking water is unsafe.

Bottled water costs 2,000 GNF ($0.22) everywhere. Check the seal..

Demonstrations can appear without warning and have turned violent. If you see a crowd forming around a political issue, leave the area before it has a reason to escalate.. Never eat raw salads or unpeeled fruit from street stalls.

Grilled or boiled food with high turnover — like the barracuda steaks at Sandervalia fish market — is your safest bet.

The US State Department rates Guinea at "Exercise Increased Caution." Here's what that actually means on the ground: petty theft is real, violent crime against tourists is rare. The airport arrival hall is a high-risk moment — street criminals specifically target foreigners exiting.

Walk past the official taxi line, get to the main road, and flag a shared taxi. Do not accept help from strangers offering to carry bags or find you a ride. In markets (especially Madina), keep your bag zipped, your phone pocketed, and your attention up.

After dark, don't walk anywhere alone. This applies to all neighborhoods including Kaloum downtown. The outer communes (Ratoma, Matoto) see more opportunistic crime after sunset.

Book transport for night travel, full stop. Demonstrations appear without warning. Security forces have used tear gas and live rounds to disperse crowds.

If you see a protest forming, leave before it builds. Political events, major holidays, and fuel shortages are common triggers. Health is the other serious factor: Guinea's medical infrastructure is genuinely limited.

Malaria is endemic year-round — go on prophylaxis before arriving. Drink only sealed bottled water. Local drinking water is unsafe.

If you need serious medical care, evacuation to Dakar or Europe is the realistic path. Air quality in the dry season (late October to late May) can be a problem due to Harmattan dust and particulate pollution — relevant if you have asthma or COPD. Yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for entry.

Emergency number: 117.

Getting from the airport is where most people get fleeced. Official airport taxis quote 1,200,000 GNF ($135). Walk past the terminal, hit the main road, and flag a shared taxi to Kaloum for about 35,000 GNF ($3.

95). The 23km journey takes 45–90 minutes depending on traffic — and Conakry traffic is legendary. For anything with a fixed start time, budget twice the travel time you think you need.

In town, the main options are: yellow shared taxis (negotiate the fare before you get in — typical short trip is a couple of dollars), zemidjans (motorcycle taxis) for 5,000–10,000 GNF ($0.55–$1.10) which are faster in gridlock but carry real accident risk since helmets are rare, and Yango (the local equivalent of Uber, download before you arrive for fixed-price transparency).

There's no reliable public bus system. Ferry to the Îles de Los costs 70,000 GNF ($7.90) and takes about 15 minutes — but during monsoon season (June to October), choppy seas delay and cancel departures regularly.

Friday afternoons are a write-off for any transport through the city center due to prayers. Always carry cash for transport — no taxi or zemidjan takes cards. Motorbike taxi (called "jakarta" locally) is the last-mile solution for navigating concert night gridlock, but settle the fare before climbing on.