La Serena
Chile's colonial charm meets pristine beaches and stargazing excellence
La Serena feels like Chile's best-kept secret, even though it's the country's second-oldest city. Walk down Avenida Francisco de Aguirre and you'll see why locals call it "the city of bells" – 29 colonial churches dot the historic center, their spires catching the desert light. But here's what makes La Serena special: it's one of the few places where you can explore 16th-century architecture in the morning, surf perfect waves at La Serena Beach in the afternoon, and stargaze at some of the world's clearest skies after dark. The Elqui Valley stretches just inland, producing Chile's national spirit, pisco, while the Atacama Desert begins its march north just beyond the city limits. And unlike touristy beach towns, La Serena keeps its authentic rhythm – families still gather at Plaza de Armas on Sunday evenings, and the fish market at Mercado La Recova serves the same empanadas de mariscos recipe that's been passed down for generations.
Culture & Context
La Serena is Chile's second-oldest city, founded by Pedro de Valdivia in 1544 — and destroyed just four years later in an Indigenous uprising before being rebuilt.
That turbulent history shaped the city's obsession with fortification and stone construction. In the 1940s, President Gabriel González Videla (a local) launched the 'Plan Serena' — a sweeping urban redesign that mandated Spanish colonial facades on all buildings, giving the city its distinctive architectural harmony you see today.
Those 29 stone churches aren't random piety; they were built by religious orders making the long journey between Santiago and Lima when La Serena was a critical stopover. The Elqui Valley, an hour inland, is where pisco comes from — Chile's fiercely loved brandy and the subject of a running dispute with Peru over who owns the name. The valley also happens to have some of the clearest skies on Earth, making it a genuine global stargazing destination with professional observatories.
Locals are proud of this. In summer, wealthy Santiago families flood the city and the population nearly doubles to over a million — which means the place you visited in March will look completely different in January.
Local Customs
Greetings involve a single cheek kiss (right to right) between women, and between men and women.
Men shake hands with other men — maybe a hug if you know them well. Don't skip this; it matters..
Tipping at restaurants: staff will ask if you want to include a 10% propina when you ask for the bill. Say 'con propina' unless something went seriously wrong. It's expected, not optional..
Shops and rural stores close between 1pm and 3pm for lunch. Don't expect anything to happen during this window outside the city center.. Carry cash (Chilean pesos) for markets, rural areas, and kiosks — cards not accepted everywhere.
ATMs are widely available in the city center.. Declare ALL agricultural products at the border, including fruit from your flight. Fines are steep and customs officers are serious about it..
The local Chilean papaya is nothing like the tropical variety — it must be cooked before eating. Locals boil it into syrup or serve it as a dessert with cream.. The beach water is cold year-round due to the Humboldt Current.
Most beaches near the lighthouse have strong currents and 'No Apta' (not suitable for swimming) signs. Surfers love it; swimmers should check before going in.. Population literally doubles in La Serena during January–February.
Book accommodation months in advance for summer peak season or expect to pay significantly more.. English is very rarely spoken outside major hotels. Even basic Spanish goes a long way — locals appreciate the effort and it genuinely opens doors..
Chileans are generally more reserved with strangers than other Latin Americans. Don't mistake quietness for unfriendliness — once you start talking, warmth follows quickly.
Safety
La Serena is one of the safer cities in Chile, with crime rates well below the national average.
There's a reasonable police presence and CCTV coverage in the center. That said, keep street smarts active.
The one area to avoid is La Antena — it's known locally as a drug-use hotspot. At night, the city center can get sketchy in poorly-lit areas; the Avenida del Mar beach strip is considerably safer after dark. Use Uber or app-based taxis rather than flagging street cabs, especially at night.
Keep your phone out of sight in crowded areas — pickpocketing does happen, particularly around the bus terminal and busy markets. Tap water is safe to drink in La Serena. If you encounter a protest or demonstration, walk away from it immediately — don't film, don't engage.
Chile sits on the Pacific Ring of Fire, so familiarize yourself with basic earthquake and tsunami protocols before you go. Healthcare quality in the city is rated high, but for anything serious you'd likely need to travel to Santiago.
Getting Around
Getting there: Bus from Santiago takes 6–7 hours and costs $11–45 USD depending on the class (FlixBus, Turbus, Serena Mar are reliable options).
Flights from Santiago take about 1.5 hours — Sky Airlines, LATAM, and JetSmart operate the route.
All intercity buses use the Terminal de Buses at Amunátegui street. Getting around: The city is flat and very bikeable — one of its best qualities. The new Red de Movilidad bus network launched in November 2024 connects La Serena with Coquimbo (about 12km away), with contactless-only payment since March 2025.
Uber works well in the city and is the recommended option over street taxis, especially at night. The Centro Histórico is completely walkable. For day trips to the Elqui Valley, rural buses run from the terminal to Valle del Elqui, or rent a car for more flexibility.
Note: the Elqui Valley road is straightforward but can have some winding mountain sections — take it easy.
Useful Phrases
La Serena Itineraries
View all7 Wild Days in La Serena & Elqui Valley
Week · $$$
Starlight & Sea Breeze: 3 Days in La Serena
Weekend · $$$
Romantic La Serena & Elqui Valley: Desert, Sea & Stars
Week · $$$
Romantic La Serena & Elqui Valley Jungle-Wild Weekend
Weekend · $$$
7 Days of Sea, Stars & Valleys in La Serena
Week · $$$
Wild Coast & Valleys: A Family Escape to La Serena
Weekend · $$$
Money-Saving Tips
- 1.Book accommodations directly with hotels rather than booking sites – many La Serena properties offer 10-15% discounts for direct bookings
- 2.Eat lunch at Mercado La Recova where full meals cost 5,000-8,000 pesos compared to 15,000+ at tourist restaurants
- 3.Visit observatories during weekdays when tour prices drop by 30-40% compared to weekend rates
- 4.Rent cars at the airport rather than downtown – competition keeps prices 20% lower than city center agencies
- 5.Buy pisco directly from distilleries in Vicuña – bottles cost half the price of La Serena liquor stores
- 6.Pack beach umbrellas and snacks – La Serena Beach vendors charge premium prices for basic items during peak season
- 7.Use micro buses instead of taxis for longer trips within the city – routes to Coquimbo cost 800 pesos vs 5,000 peso taxi rides
Travel Tips
- •Bring layers even in summer – desert nights in La Serena can drop 20 degrees from daytime temperatures
- •Download offline maps before exploring the Elqui Valley – cell service gets spotty beyond Vicuña
- •Book observatory tours at least 48 hours ahead during peak season – popular slots fill up quickly
- •Learn basic Spanish phrases – English isn't widely spoken outside major hotels and tour operators
- •Carry cash for small purchases – many local restaurants and markets don't accept credit cards
- •Apply sunscreen religiously – the desert sun at this latitude burns faster than you expect
- •Respect church visiting hours – most colonial churches close from 1-4 PM for siesta
- •Try local buses for authentic experiences but allow extra time – schedules run on 'Chilean time'
- •Bring a good camera for stargazing tours – some observatories allow photography during certain sessions