Algiers

Algiers sits on the southern lip of the Mediterranean, staring back at Europe from a hillside of white and blue. Locals call it "El Bahja" (The Joyful), which tells you something about the personality of the place. The city layers over itself.

Ottoman palaces, French Haussmann-style boulevards, Soviet-era concrete, and a brand-new mega-mosque (Djamaa El Djazaïr, one of the largest in the world) all exist within a few kilometers of each other. The Casbah is a UNESCO World Heritage site, but it's not a museum. Around 50,000 people actually live there, and their laundry hangs between minarets the same way it did a hundred years ago.

French is the effective working language of the city. Algerian Arabic (Darja) is what you hear on the street. Many younger Algerians switch between both mid-sentence.

English gets you by in hotels, almost nowhere else. Hospitality is genuinely overwhelming here. A shopkeeper offering tea is not a sales trick.

Refusing is considered rude. And yes, the food at someone's kitchen table will be the best meal you eat in the country.

Always use your right hand (or both hands) when giving, receiving, eating, or drinking. The left hand is traditionally considered unclean — a shopkeeper will notice and won't forget.. During Ramadan, do not eat, drink, smoke, or chew gum in public during daylight hours — even as a tourist.

Eat discreetly in your hotel or an indoor restaurant. The fasting is taken seriously and public displays of eating are genuinely offensive.. Alcohol is legal but strictly restricted.

You'll find it in licensed bars, 4- and 5-star hotel lounges, and a handful of upscale restaurants. Carrying visible alcohol on the street is a legal offense. Never bring wine to an Algerian home unless you're sure the host drinks..

Friday midday prayers (roughly 11:30–13:30) close many streets, shops, and carrier stores. Schedule any transit, SIM card purchases, or market visits outside that window.. Dress modestly.

Men should wear trousers (not shorts) outside beach areas. Women should cover shoulders and knees, particularly outside the touristy waterfront zones. A scarf is required inside mosques and appreciated in conservative neighborhoods..

Photography etiquette matters. Never photograph government buildings, military installations, airports, or police checkpoints — this can result in detention. Always ask permission before photographing individuals, especially women..

Hospitality is not optional in Algerian culture. If someone invites you for tea, say yes. Refusing is rude.

If invited to a home, bring pastries, fruit, or flowers (roses or tulips). Do not bring alcohol unless you're certain it's welcome.. Greet the eldest person in a room first.

Eye contact is respectful when introduced, but sustained staring is not. Algerians stand noticeably close during conversation — don't step back, it reads as coldness.. Tipping is not obligatory, but appreciated in cafés and restaurants.

Around 10% is appropriate for good service. Taxi drivers don't typically expect tips.

Algiers is genuinely safer for tourists than its reputation suggests. A heavy, visible police and military presence deters violent crime, and locals are famously protective of foreign guests. But you do need situational awareness.

The most common tourist problems are financial, not physical. Watch for taxi overcharging (use Yassir), fake guides around the Casbah (say 'La, shukran' firmly and keep moving), and currency exchange scams at Square Port Said where sleight-of-hand tricks with dinar notes are well-documented — always count cash yourself, twice, before handing over your euros. Pickpocketing happens in crowded souks and on public transport.

Keep your phone in a zipped front pocket. Don't carry large amounts of cash. The Casbah is safe to visit by day with a guide; avoid wandering its narrow streets alone after dark.

The suburbs outside the city center are a different story after dark — stick to areas you know. Declare all foreign currency at the airport customs form on arrival (legally required if over 1,000 euros). Tap water in Algiers is chlorinated and technically drinkable, but bottled water is the safer call for sensitive stomachs.

Travel insurance that covers medical evacuation is strongly advised. Private clinics in Algiers are adequate for most situations. Emergency numbers: Ambulance/Fire 14, Police 1548.

The metro is the best way to get around central Algiers. It's modern, safe to use during the day, and a single fare is around 50 DZD. A day pass (metro + tram combined) runs 200 DZD.

The tram covers the northern part of the city and gets crowded during rush hour. Six cable car lines supplement the system and some drop you right at tourist attractions for 30 DZD a ride. From the airport, the train into Agha station is the smartest move: 80 DZD, runs hourly, takes about 20 minutes.

Buses exist but are unreliable and run late, especially during rush hours. For taxis, download Yassir (the local equivalent of Uber). Lock in the price before you get in.

Airport taxi drivers are notorious for broken meters and tourist pricing. The Yassir app sidesteps this entirely. Downtown traffic seizes up after 17:00, so plan accordingly.

The city is hilly and the Casbah involves serious stair-climbing. Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable. Road conditions in Algiers proper are fine; outside the capital they get rougher.

If you're hiring a car, seriously consider getting a car with a driver rather than self-driving. Checkpoints on roads into and out of the city are common. Stop completely even if they appear unattended.

Ferries run between Algiers and Marseille, Barcelona, and Valencia — a good option if you're traveling with a vehicle or motorbike.