Avignon in July

July brings the Festival d'Avignon and transforms the city into Europe's largest theater festival. Street performers fill every square, and experimental plays run in ancient courtyards until midnight. But hotel prices triple and reservations vanish months ahead. May and September offer the sweet spot - warm weather without the summer crush. The light turns golden in September, perfect for photography, and restaurant terraces stay busy until October. May brings cherry blossoms in the papal gardens and comfortable walking weather. Winter strips away the crowds and reveals Avignon's contemplative side. December markets sell santons (Provençal nativity figures) and mulled wine steams in the cold air. Many restaurants close for vacation, but those that remain offer intimate dinners by firelight. Avoid August if possible. Temperatures hit 35°C, the mistral wind whips dust through the streets, and half the locals flee to the coast. The city feels abandoned except for tour groups following umbrellas through the papal palace. Spring arrives early here - almond trees bloom in February and café terraces reopen by March. But the weather stays unpredictable until May, with sudden downpours that flood the cobblestones and send everyone scrambling for covered arcades.