Split in May

May hits the sweet spot. The weather warms up enough for swimming, but cruise ships haven't arrived in full force yet. Restaurant terraces open, and you can actually move through Diocletian's Palace without playing human pinball. Hotel prices stay reasonable, and locals seem genuinely happy to see tourists again after the quiet winter. June through August brings peak everything – crowds, heat, prices, and energy. The palace becomes a human river flowing through ancient corridors. But here's what makes summer worth it: the nightlife explodes, every restaurant operates at full capacity, and the Adriatic reaches perfect swimming temperature. Book accommodations months ahead. September delivers the best of both worlds. The sea stays warm from summer heating, but tour groups thin out after kids return to school. Restaurant service improves, and you can actually photograph Peristil Square without strangers in every shot. Flight prices drop compared to July peaks. Winter Split reveals its local character. Most tourist restaurants close, leaving neighborhood spots where you'll hear more Croatian than English. The palace feels more like a living neighborhood and less like an outdoor museum. But swimming becomes a polar bear challenge, and some day trip options shut down until spring.