Varanasi in December

October through March offers the sweet spot — cool enough to walk the ghats without melting, warm enough that morning boat rides don't require thermal underwear. December and January bring perfect weather, but also peak tourist crowds and hotel prices that double overnight. The shoulder months of October, November, and March give you decent weather with fewer tour groups clogging the narrow lanes. Here's what nobody mentions: monsoon season from July to September turns the ghats into muddy slides, but the rain-washed city reveals colors you won't see any other time. Plus, hotel rates drop by 60%. April through June? Only attempt if you enjoy feeling like a rotisserie chicken. Temperatures hit 45°C, the stone steps burn through shoe soles, and even the cows seek shade. Festival season adds another layer — Diwali in October or November transforms the ghats into a sea of oil lamps, but good luck finding accommodation. Dev Deepawali, fifteen days after Diwali, sees every ghat lit with thousands of diyas. Book six months ahead or plan to sleep in the train station.