Brussels

Brussels is three cities in one, and Belgians will be the first to tell you that. You've got the EU bubble around Schuman, where every café serves espresso to someone in a lanyard. You've got the old town — Grand Place and Manneken Pis and the chocolate shops — which tourists love and locals mostly tolerate.

And then you've got the actual neighborhoods: Saint-Gilles, Ixelles, the Canal district, where people actually live. That third layer is the one worth finding. The city is officially bilingual (French and Dutch), but in practice, French wins in most shops, restaurants, and street signs.

English is widely understood, especially among younger Bruxellois and, naturally, the enormous expat community. There are more than 180 nationalities living in Brussels. That makes it one of the most international cities in Europe — which also means it has an energy that doesn't always feel distinctly Belgian.

It can feel a bit rootless at first. But keep exploring and the Brusseleir soul comes through: the stubborn pride, the dark humor, the beer served in exactly the right glass, the waffles that a local will insist are nothing like the tourist-trap ones near the Grand Place.

Belgians take punctuality seriously. Show up late to a dinner invitation or a reservation and you'll get the look. The average closing time for shops is 18:00 — not 18:15, not 18:30.

Plan accordingly.. Service charges are legally included in your restaurant bill. Tipping is optional.

Leaving €1–2 for good service is appreciated; anything more can feel excessive. One place you absolutely should tip: public toilet attendants. Look for the saucer near the entrance and leave around €0.

50.. Beer has its own glassware. Order a Duvel and it comes in a Duvel glass.

Order a Westmalle and that glass is different. Trying to swap or keep glasses is bad form — Belgians take this remarkably seriously.. Brussels has a 24-hour ban on alcohol consumption in city center public spaces, with fines of up to €500.

Drinking on the Grand Place sounds romantic; getting a fine does not.. Many museums, restaurants, and independent shops are closed on Mondays. It's not a holiday — it's just how it works.

Always check opening hours before building a Monday itinerary around a museum visit.. When meeting someone for the first time, shake hands. Among friends, one cheek kiss is the norm (not three like the French do).

Don't bring up Flemish-Walloon politics unless you want a very long afternoon.. Always validate your public transport ticket before boarding. Inspectors appear without warning and fines are issued on the spot.

A tap of your contactless card on the orange validator is all it takes.. Avoid Rue des Bouchers near the Grand Place for dinner. What was once a genuine seafood street is now wall-to-wall tourist trap restaurants with laminated menus and guys outside waving you in.

Walk five more minutes in any direction and you'll eat far better for less money.

Brussels is moderately safe. The realistic risk for most tourists is petty theft, not violence. Pickpockets are active around Grand Place, Manneken Pis, Gare du Midi, and on crowded metro carriages.

They work in groups and use distraction techniques — someone bumps into you, someone else takes your phone. Keep bags zipped, don't leave your phone on café tables, and don't hang a bag on the back of your chair at a restaurant. Gare du Midi and Gare du Nord are fine during the day but feel rougher late at night.

If you're arriving on a late Eurostar, consider a pre-booked taxi or rideshare app (Bolt and Uber both operate in Brussels) rather than wandering around the station. Neighborhoods like Molenbeek and Anneessens have higher crime rates — not places to wander alone after midnight. Ixelles, Woluwe-Saint-Pierre, Uccle, and Saint-Gilles are all comfortable for evening walks.

Belgium maintains an elevated terrorism alert level — not a reason to avoid the city, but a reason to pay attention to security notices at events and transport hubs. Scams to watch for: overpriced taxis that skip the meter (fix the price before getting in), fake charity collectors near tourist spots, and "helpful" strangers near ATMs. Use bank-affiliated ATMs (BNP Paribas, KBC, ING) and avoid the Euronet machines that charge high withdrawal fees.

Emergency number: 112.

The STIB/MIVB network — metro, tram, and bus — covers the entire Brussels Capital Region and is the only sensible way to get around. Four metro lines, 17 tram routes, and 50+ bus lines. The metro runs 5:30am to midnight daily.

Night buses (Noctis) operate Friday and Saturday nights. A single journey costs €2.40 via contactless bank card tap, and there's a daily cap of €8.

50 — after four journeys, the rest of that day is free. Just tap your card on the orange validator every time you board; inspectors do check and fines are issued on the spot. The STIB app (iOS and Android) handles route planning, real-time departures, and ticket purchase.

Download it before you arrive. For the airport, the train from Brussels Airport (Zaventem) to Brussels Central runs up to six times per hour and costs €9.30.

The journey takes about 20 minutes. Do not take a taxi from the airport unless you enjoy paying €50+ for a 20-minute ride. Three main train stations: Brussels-Midi (Gare du Midi) is the biggest and handles Eurostar, Thalys, and ICE trains to Paris, London, and Amsterdam.

Brussels-Central is the most convenient for the city center and Grand Place. Brussels-North handles some national trains and is fine during the day but less pleasant late at night. Cycling is increasingly popular.

The Villo! bike-share system costs roughly €1 per hour. Driving in Brussels is genuinely not worth it: parking is scarce and expensive, the entire city is a Low Emission Zone (LEZ) requiring registration for foreign vehicles, and the fine for non-compliance is €350.